Climbing The Highest Mountain In Europe
MOUNT ELBRUS EXPEDITION
FOR SIMON & FAMILY
MT ELBRUS INFORMATION
Mount Elbrus is the highest mountain in Europe, and one of the Seven Summits. The peak is located in the Caucasus Mountains, which is one of the most rugged mountain ranges in the world.
Elbrus is a dormant volcano, having last erupted around 50AD, and its crater is now filled with snow and ice. It has two main summits; the Western summit at 5,642m and the Eastern summit at 5,621m.
TRIP OVERVIEW
A classic ascent of Mount Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe, via the South Route. This is the most reliable and least technical ascent, though still predominantly on snow and ice up to the summit at 5,642m. You will base the ascent from the valley, before moving up to stay in the high altitude huts at around 3,900m for your summit push to the West Peak.
EXPEDITION ITINERARY
Day 1.
Meet at Mineralnye Vody airport and transfer by private vehicle (3.5hrs) to a mountain hotel in the Baksan Valley near the foothills of Mt. Elbrus. Shared rooms in the hotel. Kit check and full Guide briefing. Overnight at the hotel (2,300 m).
Day 2.
Acclimatisation hike to Terskol Peak (3,100m). A great day to stretch the legs and gain some altitude. Also a chance to pick up last minute rental equipment if necessary. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 3.
Today you’ll take the cable cars up to the snowline, and then have an acclimatisation hike up to around 4,100m, before descending back to the valley and spending the night in the hotel.
Day 4.
This is the day when you’ll move up to the spectacular LeapRus Huts on the slopes of Mount Elbrus. You’ll take the cable car most of the way, and then travel across to the huts at 3,900m. After lunch prepared in the hut, you’ll spend the afternoon working on ice axe and crampon skills in preparation of the main climb. Overnight Mountain Huts.
Day 5.
An important acclimatisation day, as you hike up to the Pastukov Rocks at 4,800m and possibly higher. Overnight Mountain Huts.
Day 6.
Today you’ll have another acclimatisation hike and consolidate the skills learned. It’ll be an early night, as you make final kit checks in anticipation for the summit bid. Overnight Mountain Huts.
Day 7.
Summit day. You’ll leave the huts around 3a.m. for the climb of Elbrus' West summit, 5,642m, the highest point in Europe. It’s a big day, and unlike most teams, you won’t be using SnowCats to gain altitude. It’s likely you’ll spend the night in the Huts, depending on how the team feel and what time you return after the summit push.
Day 8.
This is a reserve day in case of bad weather on the previous day. If you reach the summit on this day, you’ll need to descend to the valley same evening. Celebration dinner and drinks at hotel. Overnight at hotel.
Day 9.
Drive to Mineralnye Vody airport for flights home.
EXPEDITION INFORMATION
How technical is the climb?
Mount Elbrus is a glaciated mountain, and as such, winter boots with crampons must be worn. In places, you will also move roped together. The Guide team will spend time instructing the necessary skills to move on snow and ice. There are sustained snowy slopes, but the gradient is rarely steep. You will never have to carry more than c.15kg.
Accommodation & Food
You will avoid the regular huts on the mountain, and instead stay in the warm and comfortable Mountain Huts, situated on the side of Elbrus at 3,900m. Meals will be served in the Mountain Huts and prepared by a Russian cook.
Acclimatisation Phase
Mount Elbrus is high enough to present a significant challenge to all climbers. We have carefully built a programme which gives adequate time to acclimatise, but is also efficient and avoids unnecessary rest days. With fair weather and good luck, you should have a very successful climb. That said, climbing to 5,600m is inevitably going to push each team member physically. We have built in a spare day in case of bad weather.
Access To The Mountain
Upon arrival to the valley beneath Mt Elbrus, you will use ski lifts to access the snow line. This is common practice on Elbrus.
On summit day you have the option to use Snowcats to travel all the way to 5,100m at additional cost. This breaks the summit push in to a much more manageable day. You can make a final decision on this once on the mountain.
